SUB 200T. Graph "130th Anniversary Celebration"
- Case
- Yellow gold
- Movement
- Manual-winding mechanical Power reserve: 45 h, 18000 variations / hours
- Functions
- Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Date, Chronograph Unidirectional turning bezel
- Size
- ø 43 mm
- Thickness
- 15 mm
- Water resistance
- 200
- Reference
- 805.40.351LE.13
- Price
- 43,900 CHF
Description
The reinterpretation of an iconic model: The DOXA SUB 200 T.GRAPH For the first time DOXA will present a limited series of a diver’s watch in 18K gold. Each face is unique and numbered. An edition of only 13 timepieces. An exceptional edition that comes equipped with original VALJOUX 7734 movements which had been carefully preserved by DOXA for 30 years. Collectors be advised! In 1967 at Baselworld, DOXA launched the revolutionary SUB concept, considered to be the first truly mainstream professional diver's watch. The radical innovations it presents quickly made it a reference for professionals as well. Water-resistant until a depth of 300 meters, it is the first professional diving watch to feature a patented rotating bezel that incorporates the US Navy’s no-decompression table. This watch quickly becomes an easily recognizable legend for another key reason, too: it is the first and only diver’s watch to have an orange dial, contrasting with the conventional black or white backgrounds. In 1969, the DOXA SUB concept was further refined with the launch of the 200 T.GRAPH. It remains today one of the most emblematic diving watches in watchmaking history. And the legend continues. 50 years later, for the first time DOXA unveils a reinterpretation of an iconic model as a limited 18K gold edition The DOXA SUB 200 T.GRAPH will be presented for the first time in a very limited edition of only 13 units to celebrate the brand’s 130th Anniversary in 2019. Notice to collectors: This "Anniversary" series is all the more exceptional as it comes equipped with original VALJOUX 7734 movements, a historical treasure carefully preserved by DOXA for over 30 years. Timeless gold, noble metal par excellence, is a natural choice for such an exclusive limited edition, the reincarnation of one of the most famous Swiss diver's watches, in honor of its 50th Anniversary. With a diameter of 43mm, the case is crafted from a single block of 4N gold and topped by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. Watertight till 20 ATM, equivalent to a depth of about 200 meters, the DOXA SUB 200 T.Graph also features the famous patented unidirectional rotating bezel with dual indication of the dive time in minutes and the depth in feet for a no-decompression ascent. At 12 o’clock on the minute ring, a bright spot of SuperLuminova™. Just like the original model, the mythical semi-matte orange dial features two subsidiary dials, the first positioned at 3 o'clock counting 30 minutes, and the second positioned at 9 o'clock counting 60 seconds. The baton-style hour and minute hands feature SuperLuminova™ beige "Light Old Radium" inserts, as does the tip of the second hand. The DOXA SUB 200 T.Graph's characteristic indices in black also feature SuperLuminova™ beige "Light Old Radium" inserts. This Anniversary Series is equipped with the original 7734 VALJOUX movements, which have been carefully preserved as a historical treasure for nearly 30 years under the guardianship of the Swiss family Jenny, owner of the DOXA brand for over twenty years. Each caliber has been thoroughly examined, overhauled and reconditioned before being fitted into the case. Only 13 numbered copies of this special "Anniversary" model will be available for sale, each sporting an orange rubber strap. The iconic rice grain mesh bracelet will also be available in 4N gold. The legend lives on... DOXA – The Legend Lives On There are some very discreet Swiss watch brands with a rich and fascinating history in Swiss watchmaking, and thriving understatedly to this day. DOXA is one. With the discretion that comes from having earned its place in watchmaking history, and located today in Biel at the heart of the watchmaking industry, DOXA remains one of the mythical brands in the field of diving watches. Numerous patents and numerous awards at national and international exhibitions add to the substance of its remarkable heritage. 130 years ago, in 1889, the Swiss watch factory DOXA was founded in Le Locle under the name "Georges Ducommun, Fabrique des montres DOXA". The future is promising. The brand not only manufactures pocket watches, but also equips the first cars such as the first BUGATTI models, with a clock featuring the patented DOXA 8-DAY movement, a watch specially designed for car dashboards. Already the brand garners awards, including the Gold Medal at the Milan International Exhibition. Patents are regularly filed. As of 1915, the company employs several hundred watchmakers, designers and engineers. In 1925, G. Ducommun, representing DOXA, is elected Vice-President of the International Horology Group and President of the Swiss Watchmaking Association at the International Exhibition of Decorative Arts in Paris (for history buffs: It is on this occasion that the "Art Deco" style was born; it owes its name to the exhibition). It should be remembered that when Georges Ducommun passes away in 1936, it is Jacques Nardin, grandson of another legendary watchmaker from Le Locle, Ulysse Nardin, who takes over the helm. Coinciding with DOXA’s 75th anniversary, the brand is awarded the 1st Prize at the Swiss National Exhibition in Lausanne in 1964. The DOXA SUB Story Early 60’s: Discovering a New World Below the Surface The Dial of a Diver’s Watch Changes Forever The space race is on. Yet, as the world looks up at the stars above, another universe beckons below: The deep blue sea. It’s 1964, Urs Eschle, head of product development, sees where all these fascinating movie documentaries, TV shows and magazine articles about underwater adventures and mysteries will lead. Diving watches have been around for a decade, but for all intents and purposes, they are mostly worn by military and professional divers. And they’re expensive. Urs envisions a dependable and affordable watch, purpose-designed for the growing community of underwater explorers. He sets up a team that includes professional divers like Claude Wesly, already a legend through his missions with Jacques-Yves Cousteau. He is also one of the two first “aquanauts” who participated in the “Précontinent I, II, and III” dive missions that began in 1962 – similar to the Sealab research project on underwater habitats which the US Navy would carry out a few years later. True to the spirit of “A top quality watch at a reasonable price,” the guiding principle of Georges Ducommun, DOXA’s founder, they get to work. One Mission: Develop the Ideal Diver’s Watch To Urs it’s not just about making an attractive, affordable and watertight watch. Everybody on the team fully appreciates that diving is not without its risks, and that divers depend on their watch for their safety. It’s with this sense of mission and precision that a three-year process of making the perfect diving watch a DOXA begins. Every aspect of what makes a watch a true diver’s watch is explored, examined and thought-through until the optimum solution is found. An orange dial, as tests show it offers optimum visibility even at 30 meters. A larger minute hand that is easier to spot because a diver measures time in minutes, not hours. A case made from a single piece of steel to ensure absolute waterproofness. A bracelet with a ratchet mechanism built into the clasp so that it could be sized without having to remove links. A clasp designed to easily and quickly expand to the larger wrist diameter when wearing a wetsuit. No doubt the most defining innovation of all: a bezel that incorporates a decompression table. One of the greatest hazards for divers is not knowing exactly how long they can stay underwater without having to decompress on the way back. At the time, the US Navy’s no-decompression limit dive table is the be all and end all, enabling divers to monitor time underwater as a function of depth to ensure a safe return to the surface. DOXA’s engineers come up with a bezel integrating two separate scales, one using orange for the outer "depth" ring, the other black for the inner "minute" ring – a DOXA patent. […]
Supplied by the brand to the GPHG for its entry.