Series 2

Description

Brand Introduction

ZLTD Watches was founded through a shared passion between watch enthusiast Kenny (Z.L.Toh) in Singapore and watchmaker Raf Dzwonek in Canada. We are driven by the challenge of developing original complications while remaining committed to traditional watchmaking craftsmanship.

Every ZLTD timepiece is hand-finished in our workshop and reflects a high degree of vertical integration. Beyond designing our own movements and complications, we engineer and manufacture components in-house using CNC equipment developed by ZLTD. This capability gives us direct control over both design and production, while creating opportunities for future technical innovation.

Series 2 – The Concept

The defining feature of Series 2 is its 20-degree inclined escapement assembly. The screwed balance wheel, escape wheel, and pallet fork operate on an inclined plane while the remainder of the gear train remains on the base plane. Designed entirely in-house by Rafal Dzwonek, the project required approximately twelve months of development.

The 20-degree inclination emerged through extensive prototyping and represents the maximum angle achievable while preserving compatibility with the existing gear train architecture and maintaining balanced case proportions. A steeper angle would have required a complete redesign of the transmission system and a substantially thicker watch.

Throughout horological history, watchmakers have sought to reduce positional errors caused by gravity. While the tourbillon addresses this challenge through continuous rotation, our inclined escapement pursues the same objective through geometry. By positioning the regulating organ at an angle relative to the movement, the balance operates in a more advantageous orientation during normal wear, promoting greater rate stability.

Series 2 also reflects our commitment to in-house manufacturing. The mainplate, bridges, selected keyless works components, hands, and chapter ring were all designed, manufactured, and electroplated by ZLTD. Other than the original 6498 gear train, escapement components, screws, jewels, case, strap, and guilloché dial, virtually every other component was produced and hand-finished in our Canadian workshop. All anglage, including inward angles on both the dial and movement sides, is executed and mirror-polished by hand.

Series 2 – Case Front

Series 2 is offered with either a rose-engine guilloché dial or an in-house anodized titanium dial featuring a refined brushed finish.

Time is displayed on a chapter ring manufactured and finished in-house. The minute markers are laser engraved and hand-filled with black Japanese Cashew Urushi lacquer, while polished inner edges create subtle reflections as light moves across the dial.

Applied hour indexes at 3, 6, 9, and 12 are individually mirror-polished by hand using successive stages of abrasive finishing and diamond polishing before being installed onto the chapter ring.

The hands draw inspiration from traditional spear and assegai forms. Both hour and minute hands are manufactured in-house and finished to a mirror polish, balancing legibility with a distinctive visual identity.

Seconds are indicated by a rotating disc mounted on the fourth wheel, engraved with 15, 30, 45, and 60-second numerals. Positioned beneath the main dial, it adds depth to the display and is read via a hand-finished, heat-tempered purple arrow pointer.

The highlight on the dial side is the 20-degree inclined screwed balance wheel, whose elevated position creates both visual impact and improved chronometric performance through reduced positional error.

Series 2 – RD01 Movement

At the heart of Series 2 is the RD01, built around a fundamentally re-engineered ETA 6498 architecture. While retaining the reliability of the original gear train, the movement was fundamentally redesigned to accommodate the dial-side inclined escapement.

Longevity is a central principle of our approach. By utilizing a proven gear train and standardized service parts, the watch remains maintainable by any competent watchmaker with access to commonly available components. We believe this is an essential responsibility in independent watchmaking.

With only the gear train being retained, the movement bridges and mainplates are manufactured in-house by us using CNC equipment designed and built by ZLTD. For us, movement design and manufacturing capability are inseparable; control of the process informs control of the outcome.

Material choices reflect the same philosophy. The barrel bridges are produced in stainless steel rather than brass, providing superior resistance to oxidation and allowing for brighter polished anglage despite the greater difficulty of finishing the material.

The movement features mirror-polished screws, polished jewel sinks, hand-finished chamfers, and a straight-grained frame surrounding the sandblasted dark rhodium-plated mainplate. The ratchet wheels are entirely finished in-house and combine polished grooves with soleillage, complemented by a fully mirror-polished winding click.

Smaller dial-side bridges are machined from O1 tool steel, selected for its rigidity and dimensional stability in thinner sections. Together with the monochromatic rhodium-plated mainplate, they create a restrained visual foundation that highlights the steel bridgework and inclined balance assembly.

All movement finishing combines precision machining with traditional hand craftsmanship. Chamfers are mirror-polished, while inward angles are individually formed and finished by hand.

Series 2 – Case & Straps

Series 2 was designed with wearability as a primary objective. Extensive in-house manufacturing allowed us to work within tight dimensional constraints, resulting in a case measuring 40 mm in diameter, 10.5 mm thick, and 45.5 mm lug-to-lug.

The fully polished steel case features downward-sloping lugs that conform naturally to the wrist. A knurled crown offers a contemporary appearance while retaining the smooth winding experience traditionally associated with onion crowns. Dual drilled lug holes provide compatibility with both curved and straight straps, allowing collectors to change straps with ease.

We believe the quality of a strap is integral to the ownership experience. Continuing our partnership with leathercrafter Atelier Kai, every strap is hand-stitched and tailored to the individual wrist size of each customer before delivery.

Concluding Thoughts

We sincerely thank the GPHG jury for taking the time to review our submission.

Series 2 represents our current stage of development as a brand. It is not intended as a final statement, but rather as another step in our ongoing pursuit of technical innovation, traditional craftsmanship and independent watchmaking excellence.

The Series 2 is sold at a price of CHF 6,790. Production is limited by the workshop's capacity and allocations are limited to 20 pieces for 2025 and 15 pieces per year for 2026 and subsequent years.

Supplied by the brand to the GPHG for its entry.